The Wine Narrative

You don’t realize it’s a trap right away. It’s not until you get sucked into the wine narrative as part of the larger discussion about alcohol does the penny drop with a thud. It’s a seemingly impossible debate of observational studies, conclusions, and statistics.

There is no way to say one way or another that science has proven alcohol is safe.

Science doesn’t prove anything. It merely makes conclusions about what it observes. Anyone suggesting otherwise doesn’t understand science. And remember the statistician’s mantra: Correlation isn’t causation. It wouldn’t be ethical for scientists to conduct experiments with any possibility of adverse health outcomes to test the potential negative effects of alcohol. All we have is observational data.

However, getting into an argument about whose numbers are better than the other’s isn’t worthwhile, either. We should be talking about our ace up our sleeve, instead. Focus on what wine brings to the table.

The Social Element

Perhaps wine’s greatest value isn’t necessarily its impact on physical health but our collective mental well-being. Scientists have long recognized the need for social interactions as we age. It improves our quality of life and helps to maintain good mental health. The fact remains that wine has a social history that doesn’t exist in the same way as other alcoholic beverages or, dare I say, pot.

Our reimagined wine narrative can home in on these unique elements. Consider wine’s role in history. The ancient Egyptians appreciated wine, with it playing a dominant social, medicinal, and religious role. Likewise, the Romans embraced wine and led the charge to the modern era of wine production and consumption. Let’s not forget Pliny the Elder’s wise words on the subject: “In wine, there’s truth.”

The Catholic communion sacrament places the ultimate reverence on wine as the blood of Christ. It figured in miracles, further demonstrating its importance. Collectively, these facts speak of wine being on a different plane than other alcoholic beverages. It’s been our companion on this journey called life for roughly the last 10,000 years.

Nature’s Way

Additional evidence for a new wine narrative lies in Nature. Remember that wine can literally create itself without human intervention. Yeast existing on the berries and vines can catalyze fermentation. It’s not an accident that animals consume fermented fruit without an evident ill effect, including chimpanzees. After all, humans share 98.8% of their DNA with these primates. The evolutionary distance isn’t that far apart.

Evolution has an excellent way of getting rid of elements that don’t belong or compromise fitness. The fact that humans and other animals can consume and digest alcohol is compelling evidence. Scientists have documented fermented fruit consumption in birds, elephants, shrews, black bears, and bats.

For humans, there hardly hasn’t been a lack of pressure to change due to the ill effects of overconsumption and alcoholism. Yet, we still consume alcohol.

Risk and the Wine Narrative

Life is a risk. There is nothing you can do that doesn’t involve taking chances. Granted, some are greater than others. However, even water intoxication is possible if you drink too much H2O. That brings us to the often-quoted saying of the Father of Toxicology, Paracelsus: “The dose makes the poison.” It also makes a strong case for moderation, which wine writers embrace.

None of us gets out of this world alive. Wine is a social lubricant and has fulfilled this role through the centuries. Perhaps we can go as far as Edward Slingerland suggests about the dangers of a sober society without it. The Latin phrase, in vino veritas, doesn’t exist without a good reason.

Think about how you enjoy wine. Maybe you share a bottle with friends you’ve invited to your home. You clink glasses of sparkling wine at a wedding. You might order a special wine to celebrate a birthday or anniversary when going out to a restaurant with your significant other. They are positive experiences, enhanced with wine. And what’s wrong with indulging in something enjoyable?

The point isn’t to make a case to drink alcohol. It’s about recognizing the otherness of wine. It doesn’t exist in the same way as it does with spirits and beer. Its story has taken a different trajectory. Perhaps that’s what we enthusiasts should cultivate as our wine narrative. Let’s stand up for what it is and not what it isn’t.

Wine is part of our history. Its associations have given it a special place. For all that it has given us, we should embrace the wine narrative that aligns with its story.

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Wine and Its Curse of Knowledge

The best and worst thing you can say about wine is that it’s complicated. Some relish its intricacies and mysteries. Others see it as a barrier. Usher in its curse of knowledge. The term describes the kerfuffle people often fall into when they throw themselves into a topic. They can’t get enough of it, learning everything they can about it.

Some call them experts. Others call them bores.

Wine writer Jamie Goode, in his book “The Science of Wine,” put it best when he wrote of the miracle of the vine, seemingly developing out of nothing. We can say the same of every living thing. It’s when we try to learn and, more importantly, try to explain it that we get into trouble.

Yes, wine can be complicated if you delve into the viticulture, to say nothing of wine law, geography, geology, climate, and winemaking. As writer Terry Theise puts it, “Wine doesn’t care how much you know about it.” It’s people who lead the way down a myriad of rabbit holes.

The Curse of Knowledge and Wine

When someone becomes passionate about a subject, the natural response is to learn more. It’s easy to do with wine, especially as you hone your tastes and discover the stories. Then something curious happens on the way to Rome. We lose our perspective as a newcomer. We become another victim of the curse of knowledge.

A wine enthusiast may seek out others of the same ilk to talk about the deeper matters. They don’t share these thoughts with casual wine drinkers because it may take too much explaining. Instead, they ruminate about terroir and tradition with fellow enthusiasts. Then, one day, they can no longer speak casually about wine.

Wine’s Need for Ambassadors

It’s not difficult to understand why wine might face headwinds. It’s had to deal with COVID, the rise of seltzers, RTDs, and CBD-THC drinks. That’s saying nothing about the war on anything traditional. Wine laws suddenly morphed into stereotypes. Let’s not even mention the confounding factors, such as climate change and the economy.

The fact remains that wine needs ambassadors. After all, it’s been a part of the human experience for thousands of years. It has been there during Mass, celebrations, and solace. It’s always been there to provide whatever comfort or support we’ve needed. It’s ingrained in our culture.

Breaking the Curse of Knowledge

Our growing knowledge of wine has been its saviour and curse. Learning more has helped people produce better and tastier products. Yet, it has also created barriers. Breaking down these walls is paramount to ensuring its continued existence.

Communication is the solution. We mustn’t assume when speaking to someone new to wine. Recently, I struck up a conversation with someone dipping their toes into the wine vat. When I mentioned the blueberry aromas I was detecting in a shared glass, he asked me why they added the berries to the wine.

I was reminded of Richard Feynman’s Technique. True understanding of a subject means being able to explain it in its simplest terms as if to a child. If you can’t, you may not understand it fully yourself. The ability to explain the presence of different aromas in a glass of wine qualifies as a topic to grasp fully before telling someone else about it.

Start with the basics. Don’t dive into secondary and tertiary aromas. Save the jargon and terminology for later, if at all. Remember that knowledge isn’t going to make the wine taste better, although it will help one appreciate it—when they’re ready.

A newcomer’s perspectives are often enlightening. I appreciate the acidity in wine, but it may taste of vinegar to someone not used to drinking it. Likewise, they may pick up on different aromas that I may have missed, like the faint smokiness of a toasted barrel.

Perhaps the greatest challenge to overcoming the curse of knowledge is letting go of having to share too much. Small bits work just as well. You don’t have to expound like the wine snob expert. Let the wine do the talking. It probably can say it better if given the chance.

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Wine Writing and Qualifications

A post by Henry Jeffreys about whether wine writers need qualifications to establish their cred. He cited the supposed unwritten rule by one reviewer that the WSET 3 is the minimum an individual should have to write in this field.

And as Jeffreys pointed out, tell that to Oz Clarke or Robert Parker.

Nevertheless, it’s an intriguing question. Part of the issue is the non-exclusivity of both fields. Many writers are experts in other fields. And not all wine afficiandos write about their passion. They may pursue it in other ways, such as speaking, reading, or research. “Yeah, honey, this bottle of wine is research.”

However, as any serious wine love will tell you, it’s often hard to put our passion into words. Let’s talk about what it takes to making a living with wine.

Job Qualifications

The debate reminds me of the catch-22 of applying for jobs. Some employers pick someone with a degree and no experience over a candidate with loads of experience but no degree. Which is more important for wine writers?

This question can lead to a debate of the benefits of the sommelier (via the Court of Master Sommeliers) or industry professional (via the Wine & Spirit Education Trust) versus the educational perspective of the Certified Wine Specialist (via the Society of Wine Educators) or wine scholars (via the Wine Scholar Guild).

I can’t speak to the sommelier route, although the WSET delved into food pairing right from the start. On the other hand, the CSW jumped head first into history, culture, and wine laws. The French Wine Scholar (FWS) went straight for the deep end of the pool on these fronts.

I have the WSET 3 manual. I remember being aghast at not having to know what appellations are part of the Côte du Rhône zone of production versus those outside of it. It was integral to the FWS. Of course, it’s a matter of time and the breadth of the material when covering the global scene versus one country. However, the CWS managed to dig deeper into each country and region.

The Focus of Wine Writers

Wine writers who have taken the educational path learn a lot about culture, geology, and geography. Much of it is heady stuff or as writer Felicity Carter puts it, “too much expertise.” Yet, we can rattle off the 13 permitted grapes for Châteauneuf-du-Pape or the number of times with dates that Alsace went from Germany to France and vice versa.

It may seem arcane and yes, nerdy, but it has value. It puts wine in a greater context. You can understand why Bourgogne (Burgundy) wines can be so expensive if you know how fragmented the vineyards became in the 19th century. You can appreciate the importance of vintages in Bordeaux when considering the climate and geography—and wine law.

Many wine writers focus on the wine, with little discussion about the bigger picture. Perhaps that’s fitting for a reader who just wants to find a good bottle to share with friends. Of course, that’s fine, but I’d like to take it a step further.

Understanding Wine Stories

The wine industry’s marketing focus has moved to the personal side. People want to hear from the individuals growing the grapes and producing the wine. They want it to be real instead of a mere product. But where do these stories begin?

It depends on the industry’s place in the country and history. California is a relative newcomer, with commercial success beginning in the 1960s. France’s story gets underway around 600 BC with the arrival of the Phocaeans. Many families have been making wine there for hundreds of years. These facts broaden the scope of the stories.

Many wine writers choose to live in the moment, providing detailed tasting notes for today’s bottles. Others want to know how and where the wine came to be. Qualifications are certainly one pathway to either goal. It depends what you want to get out of your wine experience.

Wine critic Alice Feiring looks to the soil for intel in the book “The Dirty Guide to Wine.” You won’t look at that glass of Pinot Noir the same way. This perspective allows you to experience the importance of place or terroir by sampling bottles from different areas.

Final Thoughts

Wine is more complicated because of the many decisions made in the vineyard and winery. That’s what makes digging into these stories so fascinating. While qualifications aren’t imperative for wine writers, they bring new insights to the table. Experience and travel to various locations are another way to get more out of that glass of wine.

Wine has been our companion for over 8,000 years. She has a lot to say. Wine writers with experience and/or qualifications are her mouthpiece. Invite the grapes and enjoy the discussion!

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Wine’s Rodney Dangerfield Moment

Wine is thick in the midst of a Rodney Dangerfield moment. Cherished traditions and institutions end up in the crosshairs quite often. Sadly, wine is no exception. It’s taken more than its share of hits, prompting many to say it gets no respect. It’s ironic, given its place in our homes and hearts for over 8,000 years.

The problem is that the arrows come from several fronts, making it challenging for the industry to respond or pivot. Wine has been in a safe position for a long time. Its worst issue was snobbery. Yes, wine can be a simple quaff, but it can also be complicated—but only if you choose to go down that path. Let’s consider what this vinous beverage is up against these days.

25 Most Wanted Wines

Natural Wine Bringing on Rodney Dangerfield

Delving into this issue is head-scratching when you consider the facts. The term isn’t defined legally, but a few common threads exist, such as limited sulfur, wild yeasts, and, sometimes, no filtering.

First, sulfur is a “natural” by-product of fermentation. It’s there whether you like it or not. Of course, the industry’s point is the wineries don’t use more of it. Sulfur isn’t the enemy. It’s your friend if you want wine without faults, i.e., off odors or tastes. They are the things that can turn off a new wine drinker.

It’s worth noting the grapes and apples you get at the grocery store come in boxes with a sulfur mat to protect against spoilage.

Second, cultured yeasts are relatively new on the scene. They aim to tailor the beverage to the winemaker’s expectations and deliver a consistent product. Consumers want these things. While Bourgogne embraces vintages, casual wine drinkers may not appreciate the variations.

The lack of filtering is another odd one. The purpose is to give the consumer the real deal without fining agents that may precipitate out these unsightly bits. All these factors seem to create barriers for consumers. A funky bottle of wine with stuff floating in it doesn’t strike me as the best first impression.

Finallly, the other strike going hand in hand with natural is clean. These are clean wines as opposed to those made in industrial wineries. That’s a Rodney Dangerfield attack that doesn’t pull any punches. The problem is that it’s misguided and misinformed.

Non-Alcoholic Wines

While it’s not entirely new, it’s another trend that belongs with paleo diets, detoxes, and astrology. Nevertheless, the movement has legs, according to figures from consumer research firm IWSR. Gen Z and millennials are riding the train. It’s also riding the coattails of the neo-Prohibitionist crowd.

Wines are crafted low or non-alcoholic using processes like reverse osmosis or vacuum distillation. Perhaps you see the red flags. First, that’s a lot of manipulation and directly contradicts the selling points to those wanting natural wines. That’s saying nothing about the extra energy and larger carbon footprint of some companies using these methods.

Second, you have to wonder what else do these techniques remove. Flavor? Winemakers typically use fining agents like bentonite. They can bind chemically with other compounds, such as proteins, to filter them out of wine. Winemakers can also use manual methods, like racking. In this case, you simply let the particles settle to the bottom of the tank and pour off the clear liquid.

Fining agents, aka chemicals, work with specific compounds to prevent removing the stuff they want to keep, like all the other chemicals that add to wine’s flavor and aromas.

Misinformation Abounds

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any worse for wine’s Rodney Dangerfield moment, along comes the Church of England. News circulated that the organization had banned non-alcoholic wine and gluten-free communion wafers. It would be devastating for a practicing church member to learn they couldn’t participate in this sacrament.

However, the media spun the story the wrong way. The Church of England did not disallow either one. It has since clarified that it uses what would count as gluten-free wafers and non-alcoholic wine. Much ado about nothing.

The Wine Industry’s Response

It appeared as if the industry was flabbergasted at first when all this negative press hit the fan. Perhaps the neo-Prohibitionist movement was the most startling. However, the industry has seen the threats of these Rodney Dangerfield moments. They are responding.

Wine is typically a beverage people enjoy with others. You pop open a bottle and share it with family and friends. That underscores its social factor. People need other people for a good quality of life. If wine can bring us together, so be it.

The fact remains that wine is different. It affects us in various ways, unlike beer or spirits. It’s part of our culture and religion. It also has health benefits that other alcoholic beverages don’t have.

It’s time to take it back and stop those Rodney Dangerfield moments. Wine deserves our respect and adoration. Invite some friends over and share a bottle and conversation. To your very good health!

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The Palette and Circumstances of Wine

Admittedly, wine can tread into esoteric waters, intimidating those not bitten by the bug. A conversation with a non-wine-drinking friend reminded me of the palette and circumstances of wine. He asked if expensive wines are always good. Of course, that’s a loaded question, but worth considering.

One can speak of terroir, the reputation of the winery/vigneron, and winemaking. There are uncontrollable variables of climate and precipitation. Trends, fashion, and other social factors influence what’s in the glass. However, it all comes down to the experience, along with the taster’s palette and circumstances of the wine.

Judging Wines

Tasting notes offer an excellent way to hone one’s skills. Experience is a wonderful teacher. As a watercolor artist, I see a myriad of greens once spring arrives. The sky changes from cool cerulean to warmer shades of ultramarine blue. Notes help you connect the intricacies of your palette and the circumstances of the wine to understand it more fully.

It gives you the vocabulary to voice your impressions.

The Palette and Circumstances of Wine

The discussion reminded me of another time talking about domestic Pinot Noir. Two family members adamantly cling to their passion for California wines, dismissing Oregon. Dismissing an industry with over 1,100 wineries seems a bit rash. However, it rests with the varying palettes.

I have a distinct Old World palette. I rarely order a domestic glass or buy a bottle. A gifted bottle of Caymus tasted too heavy and sweet for me. It wasn’t that the wine was bad. On the contrary, it was simply my preference for a different style. That’s also a two-way street. Oregon wines embracing a French expression may similarly seem different to someone used to bolder styles.

Circumstance Matters

Time, place, and companions influence one’s perception of a wine or other beverage. One warm summer evening, I remember sharing a bottle of warm Pimms with a few family members. We were on vacation, sitting together on a porch. We had nothing to drink; the Pimms was all we had. So, we passed the bottle among us.

Many would cringe, but, at that time, in those circumstances, the Pimms was wonderful. It became part of the family lore and a cherished memory. The drink is an integral part of the story.

Making the Most of Wine

The palette and circumstances of wine have a certain magic. You can’t always snap your fingers to conjure these moments. They happen when you least expect it. I think A.A. Milne said it best about enjoying the moment, the company, and the wine in the timeless classic “Winnie the Pooh.”

“We didn’t know we were making memories, we were just having fun.”

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