Wine’s Rodney Dangerfield Moment

Wine’s Rodney Dangerfield Moment

Wine is thick in the midst of a Rodney Dangerfield moment. Cherished traditions and institutions end up in the crosshairs quite often. Sadly, wine is no exception. It’s taken more than its share of hits, prompting many to say it gets no respect. It’s ironic, given its place in our homes and hearts for over 8,000 years.

The problem is that the arrows come from several fronts, making it challenging for the industry to respond or pivot. Wine has been in a safe position for a long time. Its worst issue was snobbery. Yes, wine can be a simple quaff, but it can also be complicated—but only if you choose to go down that path. Let’s consider what this vinous beverage is up against these days.

25 Most Wanted Wines

Natural Wine Bringing on Rodney Dangerfield

Delving into this issue is head-scratching when you consider the facts. The term isn’t defined legally, but a few common threads exist, such as limited sulfur, wild yeasts, and, sometimes, no filtering.

First, sulfur is a “natural” by-product of fermentation. It’s there whether you like it or not. Of course, the industry’s point is the wineries don’t use more of it. Sulfur isn’t the enemy. It’s your friend if you want wine without faults, i.e., off odors or tastes. They are the things that can turn off a new wine drinker.

It’s worth noting the grapes and apples you get at the grocery store come in boxes with a sulfur mat to protect against spoilage.

Second, cultured yeasts are relatively new on the scene. They aim to tailor the beverage to the winemaker’s expectations and deliver a consistent product. Consumers want these things. While Bourgogne embraces vintages, casual wine drinkers may not appreciate the variations.

The lack of filtering is another odd one. The purpose is to give the consumer the real deal without fining agents that may precipitate out these unsightly bits. All these factors seem to create barriers for consumers. A funky bottle of wine with stuff floating in it doesn’t strike me as the best first impression.

Finallly, the other strike going hand in hand with natural is clean. These are clean wines as opposed to those made in industrial wineries. That’s a Rodney Dangerfield attack that doesn’t pull any punches. The problem is that it’s misguided and misinformed.

Non-Alcoholic Wines

While it’s not entirely new, it’s another trend that belongs with paleo diets, detoxes, and astrology. Nevertheless, the movement has legs, according to figures from consumer research firm IWSR. Gen Z and millennials are riding the train. It’s also riding the coattails of the neo-Prohibitionist crowd.

Wines are crafted low or non-alcoholic using processes like reverse osmosis or vacuum distillation. Perhaps you see the red flags. First, that’s a lot of manipulation and directly contradicts the selling points to those wanting natural wines. That’s saying nothing about the extra energy and larger carbon footprint of some companies using these methods.

Second, you have to wonder what else do these techniques remove. Flavor? Winemakers typically use fining agents like bentonite. They can bind chemically with other compounds, such as proteins, to filter them out of wine. Winemakers can also use manual methods, like racking. In this case, you simply let the particles settle to the bottom of the tank and pour off the clear liquid.

Fining agents, aka chemicals, work with specific compounds to prevent removing the stuff they want to keep, like all the other chemicals that add to wine’s flavor and aromas.

Misinformation Abounds

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any worse for wine’s Rodney Dangerfield moment, along comes the Church of England. News circulated that the organization had banned non-alcoholic wine and gluten-free communion wafers. It would be devastating for a practicing church member to learn they couldn’t participate in this sacrament.

However, the media spun the story the wrong way. The Church of England did not disallow either one. It has since clarified that it uses what would count as gluten-free wafers and non-alcoholic wine. Much ado about nothing.

The Wine Industry’s Response

It appeared as if the industry was flabbergasted at first when all this negative press hit the fan. Perhaps the neo-Prohibitionist movement was the most startling. However, the industry has seen the threats of these Rodney Dangerfield moments. They are responding.

Wine is typically a beverage people enjoy with others. You pop open a bottle and share it with family and friends. That underscores its social factor. People need other people for a good quality of life. If wine can bring us together, so be it.

The fact remains that wine is different. It affects us in various ways, unlike beer or spirits. It’s part of our culture and religion. It also has health benefits that other alcoholic beverages don’t have.

It’s time to take it back and stop those Rodney Dangerfield moments. Wine deserves our respect and adoration. Invite some friends over and share a bottle and conversation. To your very good health!

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