Wining with Chris

Why You Shouldn’t Fear Wine

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It’s complicated, but it’s simple. The former is a product of the modern era. The latter is the true story and explains why you shouldn’t fear wine. It’s been a part of our culture and evolution for over 7,000 years. We’ve been companions since that time. Wine consoled us, brought us together, and kept us safe when water wasn’t potable. As Napoleon Bonaparte famously said,

In victory, you deserve Champagne. In defeat you need it.

That begs the question: what happened?

The World at Train Speed

It’s hard for us to grasp that there was once a time when your world was only a 10 or 20-mile sphere. It’s a time before cars. Your mode of transportation was a horse. Fast forward to the 1830s and beyond, when the steam locomotive came on the scene. A whole new world opened up to those able to afford it.

Consider the cultural impact. We can equate it to the Internet and the smartphone. Think of how different everything is because of that device. Maybe you remember when the Internet didn’t exist, and landlines were a must-have. Perhaps you can’t even imagine what it would be like without these innovations.

People’s lives were profoundly impacted by the train. They grasped for stability when everything changed in a relatively short time. That’s the time when many French châteaus were constructed. They became a link to the past in a rapidly changing world. It wasn’t a time to fear wine but embrace it as part of history.

Remember that many cultures have made wine for centuries. It was a part of their identity. Immigrants to America brought these traditions with them, with their links to their heritage. Contrast that with our modern-day perception of wine. It’s another drink to enjoy and one with lots of competition.

When Did People Begin to Fear Wine

Perhaps one can make a case for ratings being the traitor to wine. Before, we followed our tastes. If we liked it, it was good. Then, this notion of quantifying that quality became a thing. Instead, we were left questioning our judgment. Is this wine really okay? Am I missing something? Somehow, I don’t think Napolean was doubting his enjoyment of Champagne.

Wines with faults are another matter. It’s pretty obvious when it has a musky, dank odor that something isn’t right. It’s a fair assumption that we can all agree on that score.

An interesting study grouped wine buyers into six categories. The overwhelmed made up the largest percentage. They are the people who might not buy wine often. They have the deer-in-the-headlights look when they walk into a shop. These individuals are open to advice but are easily frustrated by the magnitude of choices. They may, indeed, fear wine.

The next highest percentage included image seekers. They want to impress with their choices. That includes the guy who buys the most expensive bottle and doesn’t hesitate to share that fact. Then, there are the traditionalists who know what they like. They enjoy wine for what it is.

The savvy shoppers are more adventurous with their sipping, particularly if it includes a deal. The satisfied sippers are, well, satisfied. They don’t deviate much from what feels comfortable. Finally, there are the wine enthusiasts. Interestingly, people in this group often have a story to tell about falling in love. The veil on its history has fallen. They see something different in wine. They also buy the most.

Why You Should Embrace Wine

Wine has been a steadfast companion for humans throughout history. It’s not like it hasn’t been a commodity. However, wine has also been something more that transcends the marketing, hype, and snobbery. We speak of sharing a bottle more so than we do with any other beverage. That says a lot.

Wine brings us together, whether in victory or defeat, in stability or change. It’s about relaxing and savoring the elixir. You don’t have to identify the aromas. There are no rules. It’s worth noting that sommeliers have different brain structures because they train their sense of smell. Your brain is different, too, if you work in a certain job or have a particular hobby.

The point is you decide your level of involvement. If you don’t want to delve into writing tasting notes or reading tech sheets, it’s okay. Wine is ready to meet you at any level. You needn’t fear wine. It’ll be there on your terms whenever you want to drink it. If you want, learn more about it. You’ll find some fascinating stories that will make you enjoy what’s in your glass even more.

Discover Your Favorite Wine

Photo by Klaus Kreuer on Unsplash

A New Grape Variety-Crimson Pearl

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I talked about our experience picking grapes. We stayed at the vineyard for a while to savor lunch and the beautiful day. It also brought a new grape variety to our tally with Crimson Pearl. This one is unique for Schram Vineyards since it was not developed by the University of Minnesota. They have been actively developing winter-hardy grapes.

The Problem With Finding the Ideal Grape Variety

The species of grapes you may typically drink is a variety of Vitis vinifera. It is a Eurasian species brought to the United States in various ways and forms. The vine is native to the Mediterranean area. Perhaps you already see the difficulty. Generally, wine is produced in a belt between 30 and 50 degrees latitude in the northern and southern hemispheres.

The latitude of Minneapolis is 44.9 degrees N. That would seem to be well within its range. After all, Champagne sits between 48 and 49.5 degrees N. The answer rests with climate. Both areas have continental climates. However, the latter has maritime influences that remove some of the bitter edges. Minnesota doesn’t have this benefit. The lowest temp recorded here was -60 degrees F.

It’s not uncommon for temperatures to go well below 0 degrees F any given winter. Just ask the British Columbia wine industry what the cold did to their 2024 grape harvest. They expected a 99 percent loss. That’s what makes the work of the University of Minnesota so valuable in finding a grape variety that can handle these extremes.

The Story of Crimson Pearl

Crimson Pearl is a Plocher-Vines named grape variety. This vine has the goods. It has endured temperatures as low as what took out the British Columbia harvest without injury. That’s the key. Losing grapes is one thing. Damaged vines are another matter.

After picking Marquette grapes, we enjoyed a glass after the harvest, knowing we contributed because we also picked a couple of years ago. Then, we had a glass of Crimson Pearl.

The color was a beautiful ruby, showing its youthfulness. It was fruit-forward, with dark berries dominating the nose. The minty aroma was there after a bit of swirling. It wasn’t a serious wine, but it fit the moment so well. We sat in Adirondack chairs overlooking the vineyards. It was the perfect wine made from the right grape variety for the moment.

Photo by Edoardo Bortoli on Unsplash

Savoring History One Grape at a Time

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“I bet you haven’t tried this grape,” Troy said when we entered the tasting room. Finding someone who shares—and understands— your passion is like stumbling upon a person who can speak your language in a foreign country. Someone else knows why tasting our 200th grape variety meant so much to us.

Our journey began with varieties everyone has heard of, no matter what their experience level. It soon turned us to the hinterlands of Italy, searching for unpronounceable grapes of Abruzzo and Trentino-Alto Adige. We traveled, metaphorically speaking, to the Dão Region and Douro River valley of Portugal, drawn by the country’s love of its indigenous grapes. Greece was a treasure trove.

We had challenged Greg, the shop owner, to find us new ones. He certainly added to the bunch. He brought us our first taste of Saperavi and guided us on our maiden voyage into orange wines made from Ribolla Gialla from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy.

When we visited wine stores, I wasn’t looking for certain bottles. I was shopping for grapes.
A bottle of Cantina Dell’Alunno Sagrantino Di Montefalco screamed at me as we approached 100 varieties. I remember one writer suggesting that it be decanted for 24 hours. They were right. Eight years in the bottle wasn’t enough to tame this tannic beast. My notes were kinder, and I volunteered to try it again with proper decanting.

Our wine journey included many highlights, including tasting a 2010 Château Lascombes, Margaux. The question that always puzzles wine neophytes is knowing when you’re tasting a good bottle. We didn’t need a tap on the shoulder to clue us in when we sipped this velvety, red elixir. Yes, I could live on a desert island with just this one wine.

The most sensual moment came when the first sip of the 2014 Château d’Yquem Sauternes touched my lips. Nothing prepared me for the flood of candied lemons, succulent white peach, juicy apricot, and honey. I experienced the evolution of a poured wine, with each sniff and sip bringing a new adventure. I felt I finally understood wine on a different plain. It was a glimpse of the spark that captured so many.
The final leg of our journey began with a seated tasting of Armenian wines. This tiny, landlocked country of the Eurasian Caucasus’ southern portion held the key to our last grape varieties and the road to the 200th one. I had never tasted any, so it was a chance to score a few more grapes. I didn’t realize it included tasting some of the oldest grapes known based on archaeological evidence.

We were going to be savoring history.

We shared our table with another enthusiastic couple of wine lovers, John and Kara. The presenter teased that we would have something to one-up our wine-snob friends with these bottles from the Keush and Voskevaz Wineries. John quipped, “But they’re all here.”

We added three new grapes to our list: Voskehat, Khatouni, and Areni. The wines were captivating, with aromas that teased but didn’t reveal themselves at first. Perhaps it was learning the grapes were part of the roughly 6,000-year wine story. Maybe it was the closest thing to seeing it being born with a link to the grapes’ probable birthplace with each wine.

The presenter told us the epic story of winemaker Vahe Keushguerian and his daughter Aimee. Keushguerian and his team did what many would consider impossible: he brought history to life with the wine made of smuggled grapes out of Iran. It was a dream made into wine.

Troy showed me the bottle, a 2021 Molana Rasheh, Iran. He asked if I had seen “Somm 4—The Cup of Salvation.” I hadn’t been aware of the fantastic story of Keushguerian and his pursuit until the Armenian tasting.

“This is the wine Vahe made.”

The wine brought me full circle. My wine journey had taken me across the globe, from my Hungarian heritage to the beauty of Provence to Minnesota’s weather-resistant grapes. But it all came down to this sip, this opportunity to taste the past and pull back the curtain on wine’s magic.
It was the wine moment I’ll never forget. A quest to tell their story met another grateful listener and recipient. The wine was exquisite, but how else can one describe something imbued with passion, risk, and timelessness?

When I think of all the obstacles and challenges along my own wine journey, I feel humbled. We’ve savored many bottles with family and friends. Some were stunning, while others taught us the meanings of corked, lightstrike, and bottle shock. However, if this was the only path to get to the 200th grape, so be it. It was worth it. Now, onto the 300th grape.

Photo by Apolo Photographer on Unsplash

Grape Harvest for 2024

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It’s that time of year again. It’s the grape harvest in Minnesota! This past weekend, we helped with the grape picking at a Schram Vineyard in beautiful Waconia. We began early this year at 8 a.m. However, the experience couldn’t be better. It was ideal from a weather perspective.

We picked Marquette grapes. It is a French-American hybrid, with Pinot Noir as a part of its heritage. Minnesota has a would-be decent climate for grapes, except for that winter thing. Temperatures get well below the berries’ threshold, with the mercury sometimes dipping to -20 degrees F or lower. Grapes don’t like living in the ice bowl.

Gearing Up for the Grape Harvest

We were woefully unprepared the first time we participated in the grape harvest a few years earlier. Jeans aren’t practically after a heavy morning dew. Oh, and don’t forget gloves unless you want a visual memory of your experience. The second year, we had boots and gloves.

If you have an opportunity, I strongly urge you to participate in a grape harvest. It’s an excellent way to learn the backstory of your wine. You can see how well the berries fared during the growing season. You can taste them, which is a welcome perk to volunteering. Picking grapes gives you a sense of ownership of the wine. After all, you’re contributing to that year’s vintage.

The grape harvest isn’t strenuous work, but it’s not easy, either. You’re ready for a break when your allotted time is done. It’s a good kind of tired. However, it gives me more respect for those who do it for a living.

Doing the Grape Picking

We picked about seven bins of grapes. The harvest looked good, with a lot of low-hanging fruit and dense bunches. The weather cooperated, with the rain only coming down in a mist. It was an incredible scene walking up the hill with the fog hanging in the air. It’s a picture I’ll treasure in my mental photo album.

The three hours flew by. The vineyard was alive with the voices and laughter of the team of volunteers. It’s a meditative practice. The only other sounds were the fake bird calls to deter avian visitors. According to the workers, it does the job without the bother of the nets.

It was a good day. We enjoyed our provided lunch and glass of wine, with another one to be outside with the vines. We felt a kinship with them. They rewarded us with their fruit, and we enjoyed the grape harvest. We’ll also anxiously await the wine, with our contribution available for us in the bottle about two years from now.

Wine Sustainability and the Future

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The wine world is buzzing with talk about agriculture. Which is best? Is it traditional, terroir-based? Organic? ~~Biodynamic~~? Regenerative? Where does wine sustainability fit into the picture?

The terminology is confusing as is, let alone with the variables within each one. For example, there are “Organic” and “Made With Organic Grapes” wines. They are not the same thing.

Some people follow biodynamic principles yet are not certified. There is sustainable farming and regenerative agriculture. Where do we go from here for wine sustainability?

Marketing Vineyards and Wineries

Interestingly, some winemakers forgo becoming certified because it limits them. If a stubborn case of powdery mildew occurs, they want to be able to do what’s necessary to save the harvest. Wineries undoubtedly don’t have a lot of overhead to risk losing a vintage.

Besides, certification costs money, something that is difficult to spare these days. It may not be enough to sway customers since many already consider wine confusing without throwing wine sustainability into the mix. The industry has many headwinds as it is.

What I find bewildering is the concept of wine sustainability. Merriam-Webster defines the term as “of, relating to, or being a method of harvesting or using a resource so that the resource is not depleted or permanently damaged.” I look at it as being able to stay in business.

That means smart practices in the vineyard to minimize losses and optimize the harvest. That extends to marketing to drive sales and grow your business. You can talk about cover crops and their benefits, but it’s also common sense if you want to cut costs on treating your vineyards. That’s the beauty of integrated pest management. It encourages wise planning.

The Slippery Slope to Greenwashing

Making environmentally friendly choices is a good thing. It exists on a moral level. After all, we eukaryotes share a common heritage. We can also trace all life back to the last universal common ancestor (LUCA), making us all related if you want to get technical. We should respect all life. If being sustainable accomplishes this goal, it’s worthwhile.

The wine industry may be ultrasensitive on this score. Numerous examples exist where wine sustainability is at the forefront of many business decisions. However, many go the extra, extra mile. I applaud them. It seems a sad state of affairs when some use it as making good choices for marketing. It should be the right thing we do without thinking about it and making it a selling point.

Sustainability should be common sense from a business perspective and for the environment.

Final Thoughts

Wine sustainability sounds like best business practices in action. Avoiding waste puts more money in their pocket. It has extended from common-sense winemaking into a marketing practice. I appreciate any business wanting to limit their environmental impact. What strikes me as sad is that we have to call it out, perhaps because it’s not as commonplace as it should be.

Photo by Andrea Cairone on Unsplash



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