The word, natural, is a loaded one. The Dictionary.com definition of “existing in or formed by nature” may seem cut and dried.
So, where does that leave us?
Defining Natural Wines
While there isn’t an official designation or legal status, there are some common denominators like no chemicals, irrigation, mechanical harvesting, and, perhaps most importantly, no manipulation after-the-fact.
Again, I’m speaking as a consumer and wine enthusiast. I am not a vintner. As I see it, there are two ways to view that last point. First, you look at it from the old world perspective.
There’s a saying by Martin Luther that sums it up well.
“Beer is made by men, wine by God.”
Tradition has dictated that Nature rules the vineyard and the harvest. That’s why irrigation and other artificial practices are forbidden in some regions and for some classifications. Some in the industry won’t even call themselves winemakers for just that reason.
Then, there is the new world, specifically, American take on it.
Wine is a commodity like any other good sold on the market. That means making a consistent product that someone will buy consistently and appeal to a large segment of the targeted audience.
It also involves creating a brand. Pick up the average bottle of domestic wine, and you’ll see an eye-catching label with a fun name. It’s all about getting that impulse buy which brings this discussion to the next point.
The Bane of Marketing
Unfortunately, all of these practices equate to another case of a huge lobby misguiding and misinforming their followers. That’s right. It’s organic farming and the natural following.
Pick up any magazine or search for a recipe on the internet. The chances are the ingredients will mention at least one organic product not because it’s better or more nutritious but to sell the message and the gospel.
BTW, under its current wording, hybrids and grafted vines which are the vast majority would qualify as GMOs.
It’s easy to see how it can become a slippery slope quickly. After all, natural doesn’t equal safe. GMOs are not harmful to people or the environment. (I’m putting my money on WHO, AMA, and AAAS instead of the likes of misinformed bloggers who say otherwise.)
Organic farming uses pesticides too, and their products contain residue no matter what you’ve heard to the contrary. That’s marketing in action too. And while it bears the brunt, they are not alone.
The FDA Fail
The problems with the term, natural, regardless of its association with wine are many. The FDA has dragged its collective heels on defining it. Instead, they have vague explanations as they have with the terms, organic and GMOs.
What the FDA hasn’t done are the following:
- Implied a health benefit
- Considered the processing method(s)
Addresssed the question of pesticides
Natural wines are less insidious but guilty nevertheless. Minimizing any negative environmental effects is worthwhile and should be the aim of anyone in agriculture.
What is wrong is when the industry blurs the lines between cherry-picking and misinformation with a good message. Producers overstep the boundaries where there is no legal definition in place. They’re making it up as they go along. That’s also what makes it filthy.
My take: Buyer, beware! There’s a lot of greenwashing that muddies the waters.
