A post by Henry Jeffreys about whether wine writers need qualifications to establish their cred. He cited the supposed unwritten rule by one reviewer that the WSET 3 is the minimum an individual should have to write in this field.
And as Jeffreys pointed out, tell that to Oz Clarke or Robert Parker.
Nevertheless, it’s an intriguing question. Part of the issue is the non-exclusivity of both fields. Many writers are experts in other fields. And not all wine afficiandos write about their passion. They may pursue it in other ways, such as speaking, reading, or research. “Yeah, honey, this bottle of wine is research.”
However, as any serious wine love will tell you, it’s often hard to put our passion into words. Let’s talk about what it takes to making a living with wine.
Job Qualifications
The debate reminds me of the catch-22 of applying for jobs. Some employers pick someone with a degree and no experience over a candidate with loads of experience but no degree. Which is more important for wine writers?
This question can lead to a debate of the benefits of the sommelier (via the Court of Master Sommeliers) or industry professional (via the Wine & Spirit Education Trust) versus the educational perspective of the Certified Wine Specialist (via the Society of Wine Educators) or wine scholars (via the Wine Scholar Guild).
I can’t speak to the sommelier route, although the WSET delved into food pairing right from the start. On the other hand, the CSW jumped head first into history, culture, and wine laws. The French Wine Scholar (FWS) went straight for the deep end of the pool on these fronts.
I have the WSET 3 manual. I remember being aghast at not having to know what appellations are part of the Côte du Rhône zone of production versus those outside of it. It was integral to the FWS. Of course, it’s a matter of time and the breadth of the material when covering the global scene versus one country. However, the CWS managed to dig deeper into each country and region.
The Focus of Wine Writers
Wine writers who have taken the educational path learn a lot about culture, geology, and geography. Much of it is heady stuff or as writer Felicity Carter puts it, “too much expertise.” Yet, we can rattle off the 13 permitted grapes for Châteauneuf-du-Pape or the number of times with dates that Alsace went from Germany to France and vice versa.
It may seem arcane and yes, nerdy, but it has value. It puts wine in a greater context. You can understand why Bourgogne (Burgundy) wines can be so expensive if you know how fragmented the vineyards became in the 19th century. You can appreciate the importance of vintages in Bordeaux when considering the climate and geography—and wine law.
Many wine writers focus on the wine, with little discussion about the bigger picture. Perhaps that’s fitting for a reader who just wants to find a good bottle to share with friends. Of course, that’s fine, but I’d like to take it a step further.
Understanding Wine Stories
The wine industry’s marketing focus has moved to the personal side. People want to hear from the individuals growing the grapes and producing the wine. They want it to be real instead of a mere product. But where do these stories begin?
It depends on the industry’s place in the country and history. California is a relative newcomer, with commercial success beginning in the 1960s. France’s story gets underway around 600 BC with the arrival of the Phocaeans. Many families have been making wine there for hundreds of years. These facts broaden the scope of the stories.
Many wine writers choose to live in the moment, providing detailed tasting notes for today’s bottles. Others want to know how and where the wine came to be. Qualifications are certainly one pathway to either goal. It depends what you want to get out of your wine experience.
Wine critic Alice Feiring looks to the soil for intel in the book “The Dirty Guide to Wine.” You won’t look at that glass of Pinot Noir the same way. This perspective allows you to experience the importance of place or terroir by sampling bottles from different areas.
Final Thoughts
Wine is more complicated because of the many decisions made in the vineyard and winery. That’s what makes digging into these stories so fascinating. While qualifications aren’t imperative for wine writers, they bring new insights to the table. Experience and travel to various locations are another way to get more out of that glass of wine.
Wine has been our companion for over 8,000 years. She has a lot to say. Wine writers with experience and/or qualifications are her mouthpiece. Invite the grapes and enjoy the discussion!
Photo by David L. Espina Rincon on Unsplash