When you say wine grapes, you probably envision maybe a handful of the more popular varieties, such as Chardonnay and Merlot. The truth is that it’s more like 1,368 grapes commercially grown, according to Jancis Robinson. Remember that vines are like any other commercial crops. Viticulturists create variations to suit their needs or that of the terroir. Then, we have the story of Gouais Blanc and Pinot.
You probably don’t know the former. It’s lucky that it still survives. Of course, the latter is legendary. It’s probably high on many lists of best wines. The two varieties share a special connection that permeates throughout the wine world.
The Grape Gouais Blanc
Even though you haven’t heard of it, Gouais Blanc has been around for a long time. It’s been a wine grape since at least the Middle Ages, although some evidence suggests it goes back even further in history. It’s a white grape that is productive, with large clusters and berries. It handles winter frosts relatively well.
Wine from Gouais Blanc is quaffable, with enough acidity not to be flabby and delicate aromas of pear and green apple. However, it didn’t have the best of reputations, being considered a wine of peasants. Even its name gou was a derogatory term in France.
Interestingly, some individuals fought to ban it in France through the ages. Pinot Noir was the darling. If that sounds harsh, Gamay, which many know as simply Beaujolais, had a similar rocky history. The Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, outlawed Gamay to give Pinot Noir the spotlight, calling it harsh and disloyal.
Gouais Blanc’s critics almost had their way. The grape variety has managed to survive but isn’t available commercially, at least not in France. It exists in pockets in Switzerland, Italy, and Germany. That says nothing of its importance to the wine world.
Pinot and Its Variations
Of course, Pinot is another story. After all, the variety has royal backing. It’s also an ancient grape, with time and a propensity to mutate. Hence, we have Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris (Grigio), and Meunier. It has over 1,000 clones, propograted for particular terroirs and needs.
Pinot’s history is a mystery, with many theories about its origin. Some suggest it may be a domesticated wild variety, which has yet to be proven. However, it’s one thing if a variety is selectively grown for desirable characteristics. But something else in the vineyard makes the story of Gouais Blanc and Pinot so intriguing.
Gouais Blanc and Pinot
Remember that we’re talking early in what we’d consider the beginnings of the commercial wine industry proper. There weren’t as many grapes, so vignerons worked with the ones available, including Gouais Blanc and Pinot. The full story of the two and others would unfold once DNA technology hit the forefront.
Seminal research by Carole Meredith at the University of California-Davis discovered that Gouais Blanc and Pinot were the parents of at least 16 grape varieties, including perennial varieties like Gamay, Chardonnay, and Aligoté.
Further investigation revealed the Gouais Blanc is a parent of roughly 81 varieties, such as Furmint, Riesling, Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet), and Chenin Blanc. The scientific literature gave the grape the tongue-in-cheek moniker “the Casanova of grapes.”
Many of the varieties we enjoy today can trace their history to three grapes: Gouais Blanc, Pinot, and Savagnin. The latter is a different variety from Sauvignon Blanc. The current thinking is that it’s a cross between Traminer and Chenin Blanc.
Suffice it to say that grapes and their wines have a complex history.
However, that’s what makes learning the stories about varieties like Gouais Blanc and Pinot so fascinating. It delves into the cultural history of the wine regions and their peoples. It explains why individuals may have chosen specific crosses because of their challenges in the vineyard. It makes you respect them a whole lot more.
Discover Your Favorite WinePhoto by Molly Bailey on Unsplash