Every grape has a story. Wine may have started with Vitis vinifera, but it has expanded in countless directions with the 1,368 or so varieties that exist today. It is selective cultivation on a grand scale. That brings us to the story of an Italian grape once threatened with extinction: Minutolo.
The top global varieties haven’t changed much in the last 14 years. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot all reign supreme. Interestingly, Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the few without a breakup story, such as anything-but-chardonnay (ABC) drama or the “Sideways” saga. Yet, an Italian grape like Minutolo has existed quietly without attracting all the hoopla.
The History of the Italian Grape Minutolo
The story of Minutolo is an ancient one that begins in Puglia, or the heel part of Italy. People knew the grape as Fiano Minutolo because of its resemblance to Fiano. That’s not unusual. Similar situations existed with Carmenère and Merlot in Chile. DNA has helped us establish the correct genetic origins of many grape varieties.
Many cultural stories define Italy since it wasn’t a unified country as we know it today until the early 20th century. Regionalism is very much alive. The Italian grape Minutolo is a part of this journey for this southeastern region. It produces aromatic wines. Hence, its other synonym is Moscatellina.
The wines are also low in alcohol and acidic, making it an excellent pairing with the local seafood cuisine. They would make a delightful match with classic dishes, such as spaghetti with mussels or Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa (easy on the chili). One of the golden rules is pairing wines and foods from the same area. Minutolo is a textbook example.
You may wonder what happened. Each grape variety has its quirks and challenges. Minutolo is no exception. While its vigor is decent, it’s less productive than other varieties. Fiano has greater popularity and may have been one of many factors that brought Minutolo to the brink of extinction, including its superior productivity.
Take the guess work out of buying, learn your Wine style nowResurrecting Indigenous Italian Grapes
The wine world includes two groups: innovators and traditionalists. The former wants freedom from the regulations of which Italy has a lot. They also want an opportunity to be creative. They’ll accept the lower IGT tier if it holds this promise. Think of the Super Tuscans and where they’ve gone.
The latter involves time-tested methods but often looks toward indigenous grape varieties to solidify its production. Extinction of something is scary. Perhaps human nature also nudges us in this direction. That was part of the motivation behind the I Pástini winery with the Italian grape Minutolo and its “Rampone” offering. This variety offers a means to connect with the past and bring it to modern-day palettes.
It’s the passion of the family winery to bring back their heritage with ancient varieties. They began their mission in 1996, celebrating their first harvest in 2003. The rest, as they say, is history. It’s history in a bottle.
Tasting Minutolo
I am a romantic at heart. A well-written tasting note can easily seduce me into trying a wine. Kermit Lynch describes Minutolo as having a “…gorgeous perfume of blossoming flowers, lemon verbena, and wild sage.” Sold!
My first impression was the juicy acidity that tickled my mouth with its freshness. You can easily imagine the Puglian landscape if you close your eyes and let a light breeze caress you. The nose was moderately intense, with grapefruit and lime zest pungency. It screams for anything seafood that itself would benefit from a squeeze of citrus. Absolutely delightful!
Final Thoughts
Exploring new wines opens you to novel experiences, particularly if you enjoy them with local cuisine. After all, the two grew up together. This Italian grape Minutolo was a pleasant surprise. It was refreshing as an aperitif and equally enjoyable with seafood. I also felt satisfied, knowing I was supporting the worthy mission of I Pástini to save the ancient grapes.
Photo by Tamara Malaniy on Unsplash