Wine Pairing: Is It Still a Thing?

The other day, the subject of wine pairing came up when hanging out with some friends.

I’m always up for a talk about anything grape-related. So, when the topic of wine pairing came up, my ears perked up, ready to dive into the conversation.

The subject of wine pairing has both fascinated and frustrated me. It never fails to amaze me when it works. The experience is sublime, a feeling shared by more than one wine professional who left corporate life to follow the vine.

When things fail, it is dismal. And then there’s that nebulous gray area where the food and wine don’t fight but aren’t bosom buddies either.

The Wine Pairing Rules

When I think of the so-called wine rules, I’m reminded of a dinner my husband and I had at a local restaurant, well known for their European cuisine.

I asked our server about what wine to get with my meal, being new to the concept of pairing. His response was “Oh, those old rules don’t apply.”

I beg to differ.

Imagine my surprise when I heard a reputed wine expert serve up the same quip. His reply was to drink what you want with whatever you’re eating. Just imbibe with the wine you like.

Okay, let’s dial back a bit on this question.

First, wine pairing isn’t a simple equation when you add in sauces, condiments, and side dishes. And it’s certainly more of a challenge when you’re having multiple courses or tapas.

Second, you have to consider the cultural factors. Old World wines developed with regional cuisines. We don’t have that to the same degree here in the United States.

Finally, we also drink wine on its own perhaps more often than not. We want our wine to taste good out of the bottle. So, where does that leave us with pairing?

The Argument to Pair Wines With Food

My husband and I took a fascinating MOOC from Coursera called “Wine Tasting: Sensory Techniques for Wine Analysis” taught by John Buechsenstein from the University of California-Davis.

In one session, he had us try a Cabernet Sauvignon alone, with a tomato, and then with a salted tomato. The experience was enlightening. If you ever needed to convince yourself or someone else about the merits of pairing, this is the way to go.

The addition of salt brought out the sweetness in the tomato and wine. It was quite noticeable.

He also presented his riff on another type of tasting that a Wine Spectator course on the subject also presents.

The idea is to get a group of foods together such as fruits, vegetables, meats, and perhaps a condiment like salsa or snack like almonds. The choice is up to you.

Then, sip your wine to get a feel for its flavor. Then, snack on one of your samples and go back to the wine. One taste is all you’ll need to learn first hand what works and what doesn’t. And it’s not rocket science.

A Few Caveats About Wine Pairing

I’d be remiss if I didn’t touch on some confounders that can gum up the works, as it were. Therein lies the differences that you may find if you compare notes with other tasters.

The fact remains that some of us are more sensitive to taste. You may have a greater density of taste buds on your tongue. The same applies to smell. Some people can detect certain scents quicker or more keenly than others. It rests with our genetic makeup.

And speaking of things we can’t control, a few of us may have genes that allow us to taste—or not taste—some things.

I demonstrated this phenomenon once during a human physiology lab I taught using green peppers. About one-third of the class found the flavor offensive while the rest enjoyed it.

People detect different tastes and smells.

Food Associations

The other thing to remember is that we all varying histories and memories associated with foods and beverages. For lack of a better comparison, how many of you would pick up and drink the same libation you had after your first hangover?

I thought not.

So, those kinds of memories exist and influence our experience. And if a wine happens to remind you of something unpleasant, you probably won’t like it either.

You can say the same thing about sweetness versus bitterness. Are you the type of person who drinks their coffee black, or do you reach for the sugar or flavored creamer?

That simple question can answer a lot of your wine quandaries.

Master of Wine, Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan has a compelling book on the subject called, “The One Minute Wine Master” that delves into the topic in some depth. An excellent read.

All of these elements affect our experience with wine and pairing it with food.

But don’t take my word for it. Find out for yourself. Learn the magic of identifying the right partners and enjoy the dance.

Photo by Jay Wennington on Unsplash